Helsinki - The Home Base

Sitting here in front of Antti and Jakke's computer, I realize that I've been in and out of the country three times and am only now, nearing the end of our vacation, getting to settle in and enjoy the city. Granted, we had a few days before we ran off to Estonia but jet lag being what it is didn't allow us to enjoy everything all that much.

As with everything this trip, visiting has been a dual experience. There are things I want to see and share but it is clearly the tourist experience. The esplanade, while still lovely, meant something different to me when I had a 30 minute break and I spent 95% of it sitting in the sun eating strawberries. The Market Place still has the stalls of fresh seasonal fruits and vegetables and is currently holding the annual Baltic Herring festival ... and yet, it is no longer the "What is that?" experience. I feel responsible for helping Frank enjoy the city as much as I did six years ago and for the most part I think I've been successful. Antti and Jakke have also been excellent hosts and have given up their room and have made sure that we meet/see old friends.

Coincidentally, the Metro station near the boys is the same station I would use to get to work when I was staying out at Jollas Institutti. It is such a pleasure to be able to walk to the station and be downtown in less than ten minutes. We went out to some of the old haunts following a party the boys threw at their home and got to enjoy Hercules, a new club for me. We've taken the 3 Metro around the city, visited the rock church (literally built into the rocks), the National museum and will go to Porvoo this weekend.

Seurasaari - Island of Attacking Squirrels

Open air museums are always an interesting way to see the history of a place. Seurasaari is a fine example of how and entire island has been built for this purpose. In the summer it is the location of the Johanes Bon Fire and apparently it closes for the winter, though access to the island is still open. Antti did his best to determine whether we should spend the time getting to the island but the lovely people at the Tourist desk did not answer the phone. So we took the Metro downtown and the woman informed us that no, it was closed, and yes, we could still walk around.

We jumped on the 24 bus and headed out to the island. On the way, we passed the Sibelius monument, a statue comprised of pipes to look like a giant organ (as in church). Crossing the white bridge to the island, we passed ladies and their babies, dog-walkers and the occasional jogger. And while the buildings were locked for the season we were still able to enjoy the exteriors and made our way around the island.

I assume that the general tourist flow includes people who distribute crumbs and nuts to the ducks and squirrels. Everywhere we went was like attending a food line. The ducks would start quacking and making their way toward us and the squirrels were not against climbing one's leg to see if anything was available. Poor Frank had one climb his leg, go up on his chest and stare him in the face. He squeeled like a little girl claiming that the squirrel was trying to take his breath.

On Our Own

Frank and I had a night on our own last night since the boys were working late. We spent the day wandering and looking at the different sites. I found the National Museum is housed in a building that looks like a church from a distance. The collection begisn 1000 years ago and go through the pop culture of 2000! I think the pop culture exhibit was my favorite. Apparently in 2000 everything black was in. This exhibit also contained a looping collection of film clips that started in 1900 through to the current day. It was a fascinating snapshot of the country which included visits from a Czar, wars, celebrations, bombings in the city up to Gorbachev (sp) and Bush visiting for the Helsinki summit.

We discussed where and what to eat for dinner and opted for a Lapland restaurant called Saaga. Saaga did not have the same feel as Lappi - which I had eaten at years ago, but seemed nice and would be something new for both of us.

From their website - The birth of Saaga -

From Lapland in the far north came a whisper on the wind,
dancing with the northern lights to the echo of shaman drums,
waltzing through ancient forests, over middle marshes, sunbeams
picked out the golden cloudberry.
This whisper on the wind came south, bringing with it a myth,
a taste of age-old knowledge and tradition.
The whisper circled, searching for somewhere worthy of its message.
On the Bulevardi it spied that hearth, a home of good cooking and moore…
a kindered spirit.
This was where the whisper knew it would be heard loudest.
A chef heard that whisper and so to his dishes he added
a dash of Lappish charm and more than a pinch of Lappish taste.
Thus was a new story born – the Lappish restaurant Saaga

I'm not sure if it was the whisper of good cooking or just wanting to try something new since we just arrived and were seated upstairs in the non-smoking area, which seemed odd since the smoking area was downstairs and there was an open balcony which we were seated next to. Hmm. Anyway, our waiter was a jolly little fellow who encouraged us to enjoy a traditional Lappish appertiv which consisted of cranberries, vodka and a splash of sherry - just a hint of a cosmopolitan. Having finished that he thought that a small schnapps would help prepare our pallete's for our first course. And of course, I can't forget the Lapin Kulta (Lappish Beer) that also complimented the meal.

Appertiv

Crandberry infused vodka with cranberries and a splash of sherry
Schnapps - Number One

First Course

Schnapps - Number Two

Lamb, Gelatenous Lamb Goo and potatoes with a dill sauce - Ok, there is a name for the gelatenous goo which I've forgotten but which quite tasty. White Fish Fingerlings and slightly pickeled cucumbers with Creme Fresche - Ok, so I encouraged Frank to order this and it was served in three wooden bowls on a wooden platter. The fingerlings were actually lake fish which I know as "moiko." They are fried in butter and have a hint of batter but are pretty much served whole. It's like eating a french fry with eyes and a tail. Yummy.

Schnapps - Number Three

Second Course

Seared Reindeer steak - I'm not saying that Frank was not adventuresome, only that he did not order the most exotic thing on the menu ... BEAR. Which of course makes me wonder, if cows get Mad Cow Disease from eating parts of other cows will I get Mad Bear disease from eating Bear Meatballs and Sausage? I was going to be conservative in my ordering but was encouraged by the waiter to try the bear. I was wearing my bear undershirt so I felt like I was eating my young. Thank God Mr. Bunny was not there to witness it. Anyway, the presentation was amazing. The wooden platter held three items; a bowl of mashed potatoes, a miniature bowl of cranberries and a searing hot skillet with the meatballs and the sausage. The waiter filled the skillet with a liquid, held it over the candle and the skillet burst into flames. He then took the sauce and mixed together the gravy for the meal. YUM!!!! To be honest, I think that Frank's deer was much tastier but I did enjoy my meal and the fact that I was eating my young ... perhaps it is time to get away from my nicknam Mother Bear?

Our evening ended rather abruptly. Our tummies were full and our heads were happy and Frank had to pack for his quick trip to Denmark.

In the morning, I took Frank to the bus terminal so that he could catch a flight down to Denmark and visit his friend Christa. I get to hang with the boys, catch up on my reading and figure out more things to do with my camera. On Friday, Frank will be back and the boys are taking us to see Hairspray - The Musical (in Finnish). The show should be a hoot and a holler and I can hardly wait to see how the big Mamma's song, I'm Big, Blonde, and Beautiful is translated.